M MISSONI Fall 2016 Pre-Collection is about vitality and intensity, brought back to the present capturing the carefree spirit of the American way of life in the early '60s, “American graffiti”, bowling and drive-in mode. It is a sporty-glam mood full of surprises. The collection exudes an amazing force of energetic colors, along with unusual materials and cutting-edge concepts. Signature patterns and knit techniques take on fresh twists, while intersecting new entries in the art.
The sense of vitality is vibrant, yet all within a panorama of clean and simple shapes. No hints of quirkiness in the silhouette, only minor concessions to femininity. For the most part, no matter the type or length of the garment, lines and volumes clearly reference the basic t-shirt. tops are cut straight, pants go jogging style again. On occasion, in the “pretty girl” dresses partialisation effects and ottoman ribbings create an impression of sinuosity, motion, swingy-ness, flaring toward the bottom.
Sparking attention is the debut of various materials, namely: latex, in contrast combinations with other textures or merely in the form of sidebands on stirrup-pants: metallic yarn of different gauges interwoven with the knit fabric: faux leather, the nature-friendly way: silver lamina for designs on the front of jersey sweaters: crisp tech organza with a firm hand: print yarn for use in plaids & checks, or in mix with lamination. as for ever-favorite elements, they acquire a new personality: zigzag patterns are placed in striking counterpoint to color-block knits: mesh makes a stronger statement than usual, mimics punch-perforation of surfaces and joins forces with many materials (including shetland wool, in the maxi pullovers): jacquards come intarsia style with techno-geometries.
Fine illusion tells another part of the story, as cabans, bombers and poncho-capes with overchecks that alternate almost indistinguishably between melton cloth and knit fabric.
Still very popular, a thick chunky knit now ups the ante with glossy/matte effects, thanks to relief micro & macro pawl knits (similarly rich of texture are the big zigzags on blouson jackets), or thanks to the small horizontal/vertical rod patterns in juxtaposition to sheerness.
The palette is dazzling. silver, bronze, antique gold emerge on the scene, taking a dominant stance against black in a particularly outstanding role this season and against the brand's trademark blaze of colors, that are more captivating than ever.
Scarlet red, orange and baby rose: pine, pistachio and shades of green: marine blue and deep turquoise: dark gray and midnight blue bordering on black.
The hues create gorgeous contrasts in the clothes, making for exceptional bold patterns and prints. Bowling pins comprise the all-important motif, often in stylized or abstract form and in all sizes. the camouflage print is offset by zigzags.
One thread of continuity running through the collection has two distinct & definite variations: first, the stripe knit borders with an unmistakably sporty/preppy flair: secondly, the discreet v or crisscross necklines complete with jabots in contrasting colors & materials, whether to softly obscure the décolleté area or to gloriously heighten the look's chromatic impact.
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