LEONARD AW2020 Runway Collection picking up on a current that runs through the House’s history, Christine Phung transposes it to the here and now, updating the richness of Leonard’s legacy with a fresh, modern mood that taps into the tech-forward energy found in the Far East today.
Shapes evoking traditional kimonos and samurai regalia get a contemporary spin heightened by purity of line, while a deft mix of color-blocking, patterned borders and placement prints injects dynamism to the collection.
An exotic orchid, set on a dark background, was the starting point of the collection, and finds itself translated onto looks ranging from a graphic shirt or a high-waisted, flared trouser with front patch pockets - in a nod to the Seventies.
“What’s so compelling about a placed flower is the negative space around it, how it relates to the print and brings the silhouette to life,” the designer notes.
The House explores the delicate balance between solid colors and motifs, using fitted cuts to emphasize prints, as seen on a sporty red quilted suit pairing a Chinese-style short jacket with a cuffed pant emblazoned with a rooster feather print.
Starting with a square silk scarf, a new architecture in asymmetrical lines is created. Pleating techniques infuse signature prints with fresh interest. Archival florals reappear newly deconstructed, recut and recomposed, for example on jackets or an easy day dress.
This winter, the line is enriched by a series of quilted puffer jackets in various lengths, sprinkled with hallmark florals and border trims, while a rain mantle in lacquered organza complements a sporty yet feminine offer. In a nod to streetwear, signature animal prints surface on more casual pieces as well as on evening looks.
Between tailoring and légèreté, cuts and silhouettes bring structure to flou through puffed sleeves, for example. Experimentation with futuristic fabrics, like technical taffeta and neoprene, further highlights the collection’s modern feel.
The new tailored suit brings together unexpected elements in a hybrid silhouette that hovers between neo-bourgeois and streetwear. Fluid pieces evoke the historic icons of the Leonard wardrobe, in particular the print dresses in silk jersey.