The chaos and the negative climate of the times in which we are living made me long for clothes that are gentle, not aggressive and have a certain simplicity. That outward simplicity however is created in a highly labor intensive manner as garments are lined and faced in silk and a great deal of handwork is used to create the seemingly simple silhouette and in many cases the true luxury of the garments is hidden in their construction.
“I always begin each collection as a reaction to the previous season, and last season I returned to what I feel that I do best and that is to make clothes that are chic, desirable, modern and wearable. Clothes that are not ironic, or clever but simply clothes that are beautiful. Clothes that enhance the wearer's lives. That make one feel more attractive and secure. This collection is a continuation of that spirit.” Says Tom Ford.
Living in Los Angeles as he has for the past two years, he finds that color is more important to him than it was when he lived in London. A softer color palette seems right to me this season. Faded shades of pale blue, dove grey, plum, caramel, sugar pink and rich tones of brown and deep burgundy look especially beautiful to him right now.
And worn together in a fashion that is reminiscent of the way that color was used in the 18th century, or by the American designer Charles James. Flesh colors are sensual and have a warmth and humanity that he thinks that we all crave at the moment. And he always love clashing reds and pinks. A color mix that was often used by someone who’s work he knows intimately; that of Yves St. Laurent. And of course black is always a color that he loves working with. Black frames the face of the wearer and emphasizes a silhouette like no other color can. There is a kind of security in black.
Fabrics alternate between the softness of silk jersey, crepe de chine, chiffon, the softest glove leather, and the structure and shine of satin or the sobriety of menswear suitings. Nothing takes color like velvet and it is a fabric that he is always drawn to and this season is no exception. While last season was decidedly feminine, this season is more about tailoring and a certain boyishness. In terms of mood there is a languid sensuality and romance to this collection but also a certain peacock quality to the cut and colors of the pants, and the sharpness of the tailoring.
Hats are an accessory that he rarely respond to but this season he loves the romance of fake fur fedoras with wide brims for the women and a sleek blocked cashmere cap for the men. Platform shoes in rich dusty tones of satin, velvet and crystal often add another possibility for an irreverent color mix and anchor the silhouette. Men’s footwear is handmade and classic in it’s style and proportion.
There is a direct relationship in both color and mood this season in the menswear and the womenswear as men’s inspired pieces are important in the women’s collection and the softness in color and cut are often important in the men’s collection. Both collections are unified in color, mood and a certain romance. These are clothes to feel secure in. The eyewear also picks up on this romantic feeling as oversized transparent frames in the palest of colors gently wrap around the face. Warm gradient lenses give the eyes a kind of drama and mystery. Because of the pared down look of the collection jewelry is kept to a minimum.
Scarves in silk and velvet wrap the necks and allow for another layer of color and metal mesh scarves provide a metallic flash. The newest bag for the season is draped in chains in gold, silver and ruthenium. Makeup is sensual. Eyes are rimmed in soft warm metallics that emphasize depth and a smokey intensity. Lips are nude and in foundation tones and look natural and kissable. The skin has a slight sheen and is sculpted using several shades of blush in the wearers own skin tone. The overall effect is fresh and sensual at the same time.
Evening is unstructured, unpretentious, and has a more relaxed and less formal feel than in past seasons. Silk jersey in pale colors anchored with chains plated in pale pink and lilac frame the shoulders and necks of the wearers and provide the only adornment. Dresses while fitted at the waist flare at the hem creating a gentle romantic silhouette and are worn with floor length cardigans. The mood is minimal, understated luxury that he feels is perfect for our times.
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