Tiffany & Co.’s new flagship store at One Peking Road hosted its very first official event recently to celebrate the past and present by presenting A Day of Splendor: The Archival Collection & The Legendary Designs of Jean Schlumberger exhibition.
An exposition of the extraordinary, Tiffany’s grand flagship store became home to the innovative creativity of one of Tiffany’s most visionary jewelers - and like a museum displaying masterpieces, it allowed guests to view both the exclusive Jean Schlumberger Archival Collection as well as Tiffany’s latest pieces in The Legendary Designs of Jean Schlumberger Collection.
Jean Schlumberger Archival Collection
Jean Schlumberger Archival Collection is most essentially the collected extent works of the legendary designer – the products of a lifetime of dedication and imagination in the art of jewelry. More a portrait of an artist than that of a mere manufacturer of goods, 15 pieces from the Archival Collection encapsulates the unique personality and creative perspective of one of the 20th century’s greatest jewelers.
From the delicate Trophee de Vaillance Clip – designed for Diana Vreeland, the celebrated Editor-in-Chief of Vogue magazine, and rendered in gold-mesh, diamonds, blue enamel and amethysts – to the incredible Tassles Suite – a necklace of twisted gold rope chain set with emeralds, diamonds, and golden tassels of intensely varying designs – the Archival Collection expresses the beautiful and irreverent, indeed the daring aesthetics that made up Jean Schlumberger’s artistic vision.
The innovative mind and connection with nature
From such dramatic pieces of high jewelry, the Archival Collection moves to also display his more sympathetic, whimsical pieces that show his unique sense of humor. Hexagonal Gold Boxes with triangular facets in gold and white enamel are emblematic of this exceptional approach to design. So too a set of Brooch and Ear Clips which feature large central rubies in collet setting surrounded by concentric circles of diamonds and rubies. Striking compositions, the enamel Concombre Cigarette Case and Lighter displays the profound connection of Jean Schlumberger with nature, his unique point of view on details and visual rhythms – a trait that allowed this great jeweler to capture the hearts and minds of such storied individuals as Lady “Slim” Keith, the New York fashion icon, and the aforementioned Diana Vreeland during his lifetime.
The Archival and Legendary Masterpieces
The link between past and present can be found in The Legendary Designs of Jean Schlumberger Collection, an homage to the fantastical imagination of renowned jeweler Jean Schlumberger, whose imaginative and passionate approach to jewelry design has been captured in four distinct themes in this collection: ‘Fantasy’, ‘Flora’, ‘Fauna’ and ‘Icons’.
A classic design, Schlumberger’s choker necklace features diamond-covered platinum leaves from which hang 20 amethyst drops mounted in gold and set with 715 diamonds. As sophisticated as it is daring, the basic unity of design becomes an inspirational force in the new Star and Moon Necklace, which mix asymmetry with new focalizing gemstones and motifs to breathe exquisite new life into the innovations of Schulmberger himself.
The Ribbon Powder Case features intertwining gold ribbons, that all meet at a central point – the simple yet effective statement in gold capturing the eye with its restrained sense of beauty. Opening the center of the basic design, the Ribbon Bangle breaks up the tight design of the compact into glimmering lightness, the addition of empty space and diamonds giving the piece a sense of freedom.
Overlapping gold strands are part of the classic piece, each centering a diamond and elaborating on flame-inspired motifs – the Gold and Platinum Necklace being made for Hattie Carnegie. Drawing from Carnegie’s necklace, the Fringe Necklace takes the elegance of Schlumberger’s strands and straightens them into a modern silhouette, the classic made new through the addition of exquisite gemstones.
From exploring his most irreverent designs to illustrating his masterful aesthetics, the pieces of the collection demonstrate the breathtaking virtuosity with which the legendary jeweler renders the natural world into bejeweled form – from the prismatic interplay of color and texture, precious gemstones and exquisite settings that elucidates his whimsical point of view, to the fluid shapes and sophisticated forms that captures nature’s poetic grace in everlasting beauty.
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