2012-10-25

Jean Paul GAULTIER @ FW2012 Collection

Jean Paul GAULTIER FW2012 women collection has drawn the inspiration from across the pond, more specifically from downtown New York. With a soundtrack of Nico and Lou Reed from the Velvet Underground era, the Factory years were in spotlight.
As you would expect from Gaultier, the rebellious streak is clearly evident with references to street culture brought up to date in a decidedly couture feel. On the podium, Venus in Furs were dressed in jersey fleece, sweatshirts and oversized polos updated in a leather dress style, and padded jackets trimmed with fur… What stood out overall was the graffiti patterns(clearly this season’s leitmotiv) and, in particular, an allover-weave jacquard, an absolute triumph.
  
  
  
As inspired by the sculptor César, Jean Paul Gaultier had fun with layering, creating “compressions of clothing, tulle, draped fabrics,” as he explained. A variety of fabrics, also for the knitwear, as well as colors(plum, bronze, teal blue) all perfectly combined.
Faithful to his inspirations, the couturier did not fail to pay homage to his obsessions: the trench re-interpreted in lame, casually tied at the waist, the oh-sp-chic biker jacket turned into a stole and the men’s suit… Even in New York, this most Parisian designer is in his element, transforming his heroines into arty, pop-style muses.
Jean Paul GAULTIER Monsieur AW2012 Collection took the audience to the streets of London, halfway between Scotland Yard and the world of the bad boys of the docks. The clash of these different worlds gave birth to vagabond dandys, a mixture of classic tailoring and more causal influence. The iconic pieces: the kilt, the long skirt, the leather trousers are here as always.
    
   
  
The prints take central stage: wall of bricks, in red or grey, graffiti, tattoo pattern or knitwear, and even on the models themselves, who have shown at the finale their true colors. All of this to the sound of Like A Hobowhich matched perfectly with this Sherlock Holmes Hobo. Elementary, my dear Winston!
 
 


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