2015-04-09

VALENTINO @ SS2015 Haute Couture Collection


VALENTINO SS2015 Haute Couture Collection is all about love. Love: pure, burning, angelic, exhilarating. Love: all-consuming passion, an experience that elevates humans to paradisiacal ecstasy, transfigures the moment, and compels one to make supreme gestures. Love: a fragile secret to be treasured and nurtured, the only power able to destroy controversy and adversity.  Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli are inspired by this absolute sentiment, taking a journey through time that subtly and intricately weaves together Dolce Stil Novo and symbolism, pop music and Dantesque images, classic legends and contemporary poetry.


The linking thread and ideal setting is the extraordinary biography of Marc Chagall, the artist of Russian origin who later became a French citizen. His incredible biography is a celebration of the power of love, which preserved his pure, childlike vision even as an adult, despite difficult experiences in life. The path is ineffable: the complexity of pathos is expressed through celestial, primeval iconography. The woman is an angel who, as in Stil Novo poetry, leads one to salvation through passion.


The impalpable elongated silhouette has an empire waist and is made of light, pure materials covered with embellishments such as verses, cryptograms, motifs, and amorous designs. Private sentiments emerge, but are opulently revealed only up close. Exploring the specificity of Couture in its true essence, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli conceive each creation as a unicum, an expression of the infinite nuances of the sentiment that inspires their work.


Natural linens, gauze, muslin, and velvet are superimposed in tactile poems on layered dresses. Corsets worn as outerwear or incorporated in the structure of the dress hug the breasts and protect the heart. Long embroidered vests are worn over light dresses. Bustier tops form wing-like elements. The metallic knit dress is movingly tender, while the embroidery on the linen coat has a vibrant nature.


Long velvet dresses and muslin blouses portray figures ready to take flight. Pure, almost elementary colors, capture the sensational power of emotion: neutral shades of ecru ivory and off-white are accented with blue, red and light blue.


This celebration of love focuses on its protagonist: the woman, a sublime creature who triggers this process of elevation. The message is harmonious and leads to salvation because mankind can embrace the true meaning of life only through a rediscovery of love.


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