BOSS FW2015/16 Womenswear Collection

BOSS FW2015/16 Womenswear collection themed Industrial Beauty. Jason Wu crystallizes his vision for the brand. A strong focus on sharp cut and innovative fabrications; streamlining the silhouette and paring-back decoration to the fundamental elements.

Continuing the marriage of man and nature that has continually inspired the aesthetic of his BOSS Womenswear collections, Wu combines curves with straight lines, cutting strong, curvilinear shoulders into equestrian-inspired tailoring. A union of the rigorous and manufactured with the organic, and of male with female, this collection pulls classic garments from the timeless gentleman’s wardrobe – the masculine heritage so essential to BOSS and reinvents them for the twenty-first century woman.

Bold contrasts of anthracite, black, vanilla and punchy vermillion are literally woven together in macro-scale tweeds. Mélange wool is bonded to jersey for lean trouser-suits, while raw edges highlight innovative double-face fabric treatments in contrast colors.

Combined with classic menswear fabrics, industrial-inspired embellishment offers a new type of modern feminine elegance.

Tubular beads and laser-cut sequins are given a tough edge with plasticized finishes and tulle overlays while traditional canvas techniques are adding three-dimensional shape. Delicate metallic yarns are knitted into lucent dresses.

Accessories accentuate the story of contrasts, combining tailoring wool bonded with leather, juxtaposing jodhpur boot details with sculptural, corrugated heels.

The BOSS Bespoke handbag, its rectilinear shape precision tailored, reappropriates menswear cufflinks as hardware fastenings. The design translates those masculine details into a quintessentially feminine idiom in the new BOSS accessory.

MAISON MARGIELA FW2015/16 ‘Défilé’ Collection

MAISON MARGIELA FW2015/16 ‘Défilé’ Collection proposes a new alignment and the evolving fil rouge of the ‘Artisanal’ collection. In evoking a calculated imperfection, the individual emerges.

Whispered to life, garments question ideas of conformity, and the élan of the individual rises to the fore. Innocence is celebrated, articulating a new standard of beauty. An ephemeral muse returns, her power reactionary and sensitive. Personalities shine in characters mingled through a sepia lens. 

Transformation is vital; spontaneous, cathartic gestures meet studied craft for an attenuated silhouette and its immediate release. The twin lives of a garment are the key to its nonchalance, just as day fades into night. Such musings disregard the dated concerns of what to wear, and when.

Tailoring and flou find new proportions, both charming and askew. Just as fabrics are imbued with memory and emotion, their allure serves new context across the articulated body.

At times, they reference themselves; elsewhere they allude to a deeper metafiction. Decoration follows suit: naive flowers and feathers subvert the bourgeoisie through a muted joie-de-vivre. 

At once diffused and saturated, their colours allude to a warm sense, a fashion lo-fi: like polaroids inflected with acid dreams.

MOSCHINO FW2015/16 Men's Collection

MOSCHINO FW2015/16 Men's collection is a blizzard, boys! Time to wrap up in loads of layers and get to the rave that’s pumping off the top of the snow-capped mountain.  Jeremy Scott has got you covered on what to wear.

Everything in this wintery collection has been designed to be party proof for the snow, warm enough to get you through the icy conditions, but cool enough to let you breeze right by the doorman.

Trekking through the wintery back woods requires outerwear that befits a bad-ass expedition.

  

Scott has invented enough variations from cropped shearling bombers and gold foil puffers to patchworked, multicolored Montgomerys and military coats that come dripping in David Crockett’s fox tails to suit every boy on the dancefloor.

Once inside the steamy club, the coats slip off, and the bare-chested boys are ready to rock.

Back in the chilly outdoors, patchworks of shearling, fox and mink bring out the mountain-man for a wild, evening ride. 

Fake furs are spotted and striped with bold animal patterns. Nylon and silver metallic leather stamped with punchy orange hibiscus prints brings a street edge, while rough buffalo check rings in a clear sign of the good, old outdoors.

Other materials, like brightly colored fuzzy mohair, classic herringbones and tweeds, blanket the boys in warmth. This being a rave gathering, not everyone is behaving as expected. 

401 jeans’ pockets get ripped off pants and re-sewn up into a mash-up patchwork on cropped jackets.

Other signature-Scott hybrids include a shearling biker jacket that’s been crossed with a tuxedo tail coat construction or kilt skirts sprouting scarf constructions. Long johns, python printed leather trousers, jeans and puffer snowboarding pants are bottom half staples.

Footwear is sturdy enough to tramp right through the snow and up the mountain top. Leather and nylon hiking boots, Moschino leopard print moon boots, wooly mammoth boots, and patent leather expedition boots are ruggedly chic.

For tussles and tumbles in the snow, there are shearling trapper hats, long knit caps, ski goggles, and silver ski gloves. Inventive men’s bags include full fur knapsacks, rhinestone crusted totes, puffer backpacks with Davey Crockett fox tails are roomy enough for all of the evenings provisions. And if it ends up being an all-nighter, let’s hope they brought some instant coffee for the morning after.