A carefree contemporary Chinese restaurant set in bold designer vibe with a classy and relaxed ambience features Cantonese, Sichuanese and Shanghainese flavours artisanal dishes, Sui Tang Li’s gastronomy is large than life for its sophistication dining experience.
mylifestylenews writes.
One must always be adventurous when dining out and it is not always the case that free-standing restaurants have an edge on hotel restaurants, so it is always refreshing to dine in a luxury hotel and find that authentic local food experience can be enjoyed. Sui Tang Li, with a name inspired by the meaning “happy, free and relaxed” housed in the residence building of The Middle House Shanghai is somewhere you hygge while enjoying a sumptuous meal and rediscover the taste of elevated Chinese classic dishes, cherishing time spent with your besties and family.
Be Yourself here as there is nothing stuffy about the sophisticated and cozy atmosphere, every other diner looked totally relaxed and in the throes of foodie heaven. The restaurant oozes bold designer vibes and a dramatic spiral staircase entrance to set the tone for a creative and elevated dining experience. The interior atmosphere is inviting, during the day the beautifully designed and intimate dining room is drenched with natural sunlight and at night has all the lights twinkling from the surrounding environs to create a very magical ambience.
The entrance through the bold and dramatic staircase from ground level (even via lower ground level for in-house guests) is rather captivating. While making a grand entrance to the second level may well be your version of being seen allegedly, but the feel good factor to admire and embrace the surrounding design elements is blissfully encouraged.
A screen wall inlaid with green glazed tiles to the right of the restaurant simplifies a modern take of the oriental elements that blend well with the dark colour furniture and table settings in this front part of the dining area together with a long wooden table that can easily accommodate six diners or more.
The service station island and hanging lamps separate part of the dining area and the semi open amber-coloured glass show kitchen. Further proceeding to the main dining area opens out with a long stretch banquette seating and accompanied by lighter earth tone colour chairs. Large windows run horizontally in the entire zen-ish restaurant illuminated by hanging mood lights for a warm snuggy yet unpretentious dining experience. Despite not any formal or particular dress code or attire was enforced, most diners were well dressed and groomed (at least during our visit) to suit the sophisticated ambience. Be in it or you may walk yourself out as the blissfulness of well-groomed crowds clearly enlighten the dining experience in this aspirational restaurant and perhaps open up your appetite further.
Opened in June 2028, Sui Tang Li had made its fame on the Shanghai food map since. Helmed by native Shanghainese, Chef Tony Ye pays homage to the vast culinary contrasts in the country and his kitchen blends Cantonese, Sichuanese and Shanghainese influences with surprising artisanal ingredients for a series of imaginative dishes that are playful, punchy and of course edible. Dishes are served as sharing plates and small bites, you can pair your food with a notable selection of accompanying wines at very affordable prices. While dim sum is not normally served at dinner, we made a special request to sample a few at dinner which they managed to accommodate, so we could see the length and breadth of the menu in one go, and we were ready to savour those Michelin guide recommendations and re-imagined modern Chinese classics.
<Iberico Pork Char Siu & Kimchi>
Sui Tang Li’s inventive dishes are ideal for sharing and presented in style to delight your palate, our first and most anticipated dish that came to the table was the smokey and chunky cut of barbeque Iberico pork which was deliciously juicy, rich and flavourful. Despite our preference on the palate to be a little more char-grilled or “burnt” for a light crust, the well balanced fat and meat chosen made every bite of this devil-ish dish sinfully delightful and enjoyable, minus the kimchi.
<Preserved Cauliflower Fungus, Yellow Fungus, Pine Nut>
Cauliflower with yellow Fungus – In actual fact it is preserved cauliflower fungus (not actual cauliflower) and it is a very tasty cold dish with an inventive take on mushrooms well accompanied by the aromatic pine nuts to give an extra crunchy bite on the palate.
<Crunchy Hazelnut Foie Gras, Iberico Ham Scallion Pancake>
A decadent take on foie gras with a crunchy hazelnut foie gras and Iberico ham scallion pancake. The rich and creamy foie gras was the perfect counterpoint to the crispy pancake. It is a perfect east-meets-west pairing from the prestige ingredient well enjoyed with the elevated Iberico ham Shanghai “grass-root” street snack pancake. A great inventive appetizer!
<Dim Sum Trio>
The Xiao Long Bao was an elevated classic with delicious pork broth wrapped and folded in beetroot paste made us want more. The pork Siu Mai was a wonderful twist with a generous slice of fresh and meaty scallop, vinegar quail egg caviar that was light and juicy to savour. The mushroom dumpling was delightful, well glazed with oil to prevent it being too dry on the skin and delicately tied with chive to create the pocket mouth full dumpling shape that is so flavourful with finely diced mushroom. Utterly delicious!
<Double-boiled Matsutake Soup, Tofu, Bamboo Fungus>
While this ancient years old soup dish required a masterful skill in order to cut or gently slice through the delicate tofu over 200 times without flaws to create that flower-like impression, not many restaurants would take the challenge or trouble to do so. The arty presentation was simply amazing, not only edible but admirable for the hard work done well. Do not expect a rich flavour from this light double-boiled broth as it is meant to be enjoyed delicately.
<Braised Beef Short Ribs, Beef Tongue, Beef Puff>
This minotaur beef dish is a stunning dish on all counts. Each variation was delicious in its own right, with each exuding a distinctly different texture and flavour with the most gorgeous presentation. A true homage to Shanghainese style of cooking by using a thick, rich and dark sauce to create the powerful and dominating palate. Simply divine and a must order!
<Braised Spicy Beef Tongue, Frog Leg, Porcini & Lettuce>
What a rich semi-stew dish this was and full of contrasts - soft buttery frogs legs, spicy beef tongue, aromatic porcini and crunchy lettuce. The soup stock was a little spicy from the popular Sichuan peppers used but not overpowering. It is a delish and harmonious dish overall with every accompanying ingredient cooked to perfection. Another homage to the Sichuan cuisine done well in Sui Tang Li.
<Caramel Shrimp, Green Onion, Lime Juice>
Shrimp was called here being a little too modest yet these big size river prawns were cooked on high heat, tossed and caramelized in a light soy sauce as well as a hint of lime juice for that citrusy balance. The deep-fried scallion was just perfect with a hint of bitterness that created a light complexity that stood out. This elevated modern Cantonese classic is simply divine!
<Stew Rock Lobster Ma Po Tofu>
This was a beautifully presented and executed dish with a generous size of whole rock lobster used and cooked with the supposed peppery spicy and numb sauce together with tofu to create that yin and yang of flavours from both the rice and bland ingredients combined. The outcome was not as spicy as we thought but rather enjoyable nevertheless. The silken tofu was light in texture and absorbed all the rich flavours from the sauce and works best with one mouth full together with the sizable chunky cut of lobster providing a contrasting texture and complex taste that we enjoyed.
<Braised Soy Sauce Pork Belly, Dried Bamboo Shoot>
The silky jelly-like braised pork belly was artfully and carefully stacked up for a pagoda look presentation which is superb in texture, rich yet minus the oily palate that is quite satisfying for that melt-in-your-mouth moment. The pork belly was more delicate and refined than the usual choice and the bao was shaped as gold - the form of money used in ancient China period and flavoured with pumpkin, such a visual highlight as well as a memorable taste on the palate from one of the many classic Shanghainese dishes.
<Crispy Duck, Preserved Vegetable, Pork, Shrimp>
While you have enough of the classic Peking Duck, this crispy duck was cooked a-la -confit with a preserved vegetable, pork and shrimp being minced and stuffed back in with the duck as filling. You open the steaming hot pancake, add both plum and cherry sauces lightly spread, place a few julienned sticks of radish, cucumber and scallion and then place one whole slice of the duck in the crispy pastry to enjoy. Another delectable creation with delicate flavours that unfolded on the palate and made this dish a winner!
<Crispy Jasmine Rice, Lobster Soup>
A generous bowl of thick and tasty lobster bisque instead of soup liquid over some crispy Jasmine rice is the kind of heart warning rice dish that is difficult to fail to please in all forms. This dish was a surprise, as the rice was crispy, creating a pleasing textural play in the mouth with the bountiful lobster meat that was all placed in the lobster bisque. So deliciously moreish!
<Pea Sprout, Star Jelly, Pumpkin Soup>
Simplicity at its best! Such a fresh crunchy vegetable course cooked with star jelly - a black river fungus in pumpkin and chicken stock that is deliciously refreshing after the rich meat dishes. A must order!
<Gorgonzola Ice Cream, Deep-fried Stinky Tofu>
This was a crazy dessert that will surprise many, but may not be for everyone. The stinky tofu was just as you would expect and not sure it is a dessert item. The gorgonzola cheese ice cream on crispy red rice was also a bit strange, but put it all together and you have one strange and crazy idea for dessert that is something you will never forget. Expect the unexpected!
<Jumping Egg, Chilled Mango Cream, Sago, White Chocolate>
A stunning presentation, so once you crack the white chocolate egg, the mango puree comes out and you end up with a classic Cantonese style sago pudding, elevated of course. This is a fun dessert and a fitting end to the dinner that was so memorable and sweet.
In a city of nearly 25 million people, getting noticed is not an easy task, but dining in Sui Tang Li was a wonderful culinary journey with some elevated ingredients and flavours along with a few unexpected twists on a modern take on which are to be embraced if you are brave enough to explore the unknown and get out from your comfort zone. Mary, the Assistant Manager looked after us and embodied all you could hope for, with such warm and friendly professional service. The staff uniform is rather strange and a disconnect for us, but a minor observation in the greater scheme of things. Hats off to the culinary team for providing such tantalizing food that never disappointed us and kept us on our toes with their inventiveness and superb presentations. You would be hard pressed to find another restaurant that presents such a varied menu with unique twists and combinations of ingredients. For all the gourmands out there with adventurous palates that are residing in or visiting Shanghai, you won’t want to miss out and savour the taste of sophistication on this inspiring curated modern menu that is true to its origins. Bon Appétit!
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